Wave terms include the wave period, which is the number of seconds between successive wave combs as they pass through the same stationary object, such as a stake or buoy. The greater the number of seconds between the waves, the larger the resulting wave. Waves ideal for surfing have a swell period of 12 seconds or more, so waves of less than 11 seconds are usually not included in the average. Metoceous measurements in the Southern Ocean – including ocean winds and currents, surface waves and waves, ice cover and thickness – are crucial or can at least help solve and solve problems of great importance. Without in situ observations of the Southern Ocean, it is not possible to solve the problems of fetch limitation, extreme extratropical cyclones, wave and current propagation and attenuation, and wave-current interactions. The topics of wave-induced propagation of floating objects, ice-wave interactions in the marginal ice zone, Methozean climatology and their relationship to global climate generally cannot be complete without comparing the behavior of these phenomena with observations in this most dynamic area of the world ocean. Diana K. Williams is a certified master gardener, has over a decade of experience as an environmental scientist, and holds a Bachelor of Science degree in Biology and Environmental Studies from Ohio Northern University. Williams is the winner of Writer`s Digest magazine`s annual writing contest. Ardhuin, F., Rogers, E., Babanin, A., Filipot, J.-F., Magne, R., Roland, A., et al.

(2010). Semi-empirical dissipation source functions for ocean waves. Part I: Definitions, calibration and validations. J. Phys. Oceanogr 40, 1917-1941. where E is the wave spectrum that changes in space and time and whose integral is the total energy of the waves, and the right side is the sin (wind), Sds (usually due to wave breaking) sources and Snl redistribution rods for this energy (more terms are available under certain circumstances, especially at finite depths). While the forecast based on (2) is applied globally, strictly speaking, none of the terms on the right apply to the swell: the swell is not the force of the wind (by definition), the swell does not break in deep water due to its low slope, and hasselmann resonance interactions, which are generally used as snl, are not applicable to swells because they are unidirectional and therefore cannot meet the resonance conditions. The direction of the swell is the direction from which the swell originates, as opposed to the direction in which it moves. A collection of ocean waves moves in one general direction, but does not move in exactly the same direction. Even a linear effect as simple as refractive-induced convergence and wave energy divergence has proven to be an important factor in modulating the spatial distribution of wave height at the meso scale (e.g., Ardhuin et al., 2017).

One of the most obvious examples of wave refraction is that of wave trains that propagate above meso-scale ocean eddies (Figure 3, figures on the left). Due to the shear of the inverted horizontal current, one side of the vortex causes the incident wave beams to diverge, while the other side causes the rays to converge (e.g., Mathiesen, 1987). Rapizo et al. (2018) have shown that vortex scales, such as those observed in the global flux reanalysis, can potentially produce this effect on waves in the Southern Ocean, but the main influence of this current on the distortion of wave height worldwide is due to another linear effect – the change in relative wind speed for waves on currents (Figure 3, right image). However, field observations of wave dynamics are even rarer than those of waves in tropical cyclones: the three works of Snodgrass et al. (1966), Ardhuin et al. (2009) and Young et al. (2013) may be close to the exhaustive list. Only the first article is based on in situ measurements, and modern studies are remote sensing. Satellites provide near real-time global coverage and are an effective way to estimate swell subsidence, but they cross large circles instead of tracking waves, and when it comes to wave arrival time, they must rely on assumptions about wave propagation speeds in their measurements, which is not useful because these speeds obviously change. when the waves spread.

What is the difference between a swell and a wave? A sea swell, that is, a collection of waves created by storm winds raging for hundreds of kilometers on the sea, is different from waves, which are the product of local winds along coastal beaches.